Long before it showed up in skin care aisles, pearl powder was a staple of Chinese beauty routines.
Archaeologists have found pearl based cosmetics in Chinese tombs dating to the Northern Song Dynasty, nearly a thousand years ago. Today it is having a second life in wellness circles, and researchers are finally taking a closer look.
Here is what pearl powder is, what it may do, and how to use it well.
What is pearl powder?
Pearl powder is exactly what it sounds like. Whole pearls, usually freshwater, are cleaned and milled into a fine powder.
It is mostly calcium carbonate in a crystal form called aragonite. The rest is a protein rich matrix that contains amino acids and trace minerals like zinc, magnesium and iron.
In Chinese medicine, pearl is called Zhen Zhu. Its close cousin, mother of pearl from the inner shell, is called Zhen Zhu Mu.
Pearl powder in Chinese medicine
Traditional texts describe pearl as sweet, salty and cold. It is associated with the Heart and Liver channels.
It has been used in three main ways.
- To calm the spirit. Pearl is used to settle the Shen when the mind feels unsettled or sleep is restless. Read more in What is Shen.
- To brighten the eyes. It is used to clear heat from the Liver, which Chinese medicine connects to the eyes.
- To support the skin. Applied topically, it has long been used to help skin look clear and even.
Mother of pearl is used more for anchoring, when someone feels agitated, dizzy or overheated in the upper body.
Pearl powder benefits, and what the research says
Research on pearl powder is growing, but it is still early. Most studies so far are lab or animal studies, so the results are promising rather than proven.
Skin moisture
A study in the Journal of Cosmetic Science tested three pearl powder products on skin. It found a moisturizing effect, measured by lower water loss and higher surface hydration.
Antioxidant activity
The same study found pearl powder reduced free radical activity and tyrosinase activity in lab tests. Tyrosinase is the enzyme involved in making pigment, which may explain pearl's long reputation for brightening.
Skin repair
A 2021 review in the journal Materials looked at the growing research on pearl powder. Much of the work focuses on wound healing, where pearl extracts appear to help skin cells called fibroblasts move and grow in lab models.
Calm and sleep
The same review notes pearl's traditional use for palpitations and insomnia. There is little modern clinical research here yet. If sleep is your main goal, our guide to natural remedies for sleep covers herbs with more evidence behind them.
How to use pearl powder on your skin
A little goes a long way. Start with a patch test on your inner arm before using it on your face.
Simple honey and pearl mask
- Mix half a teaspoon of pearl powder with a teaspoon of raw honey.
- Spread a thin layer on clean skin.
- Leave it on for 15 to 20 minutes.
- Rinse with warm water and follow with your usual moisturizer.
Other easy ways to use it
- Stir a pinch into your night cream or face oil.
- Mix with water into a paste for a quick weekly mask.
- Dust a tiny amount over makeup as a soft highlighter.
One thing to skip. Do not mix pearl powder into sunscreen. Adding anything to sunscreen can thin it and lower the protection it is tested to give.
Taking pearl internally
In Chinese medicine, pearl is also taken by mouth in small amounts, usually as part of a formula. Our Pearl (Zhen Zhu) Herbal Tincture and Mother of Pearl (Zhen Zhu Mu) Herbal Tincture are an easy way to try it.
Follow the label and talk to your doctor or a licensed herbalist first if you are pregnant, nursing, take calcium supplements or have a history of kidney stones.
How to choose a clean pearl powder
Quality matters more with pearl than with most herbs. Shells can absorb heavy metals from the water they grow in.
A study published in JAMA tested calcium supplements and found measurable lead in 4 of 7 natural products made from shell. That is a good reason to be picky.
- Look for brands that publish third party heavy metal testing.
- Choose powder labeled for internal use if you plan to take it by mouth. Cosmetic grade is for skin only.
- Look for a very fine, "nano" or "micronized" grind. It blends more smoothly and absorbs better on skin.
- Buy from a seller who can tell you where the pearls came from.
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Sources
- Loh XJ, et al. Pearl Powder, An Emerging Material for Biomedical Applications. A Review. Materials, 2021. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8197316
- Frontiers in Bioengineering and Biotechnology. Review of pearl and nacre powder, 2021. frontiersin.org
- Journal of Cosmetic Science. Comparison of three pearl powder products on skin, Vol. 61 No. 2. library.scconline.org
- Ross EA, et al. Lead content of calcium supplements. JAMA, 2000. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10989406
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.